Buying a used car: the pre-purchase checklist

It's tempting to walk straight round the bodywork, but the paperwork is where the real problems hide. Ask to see the V5C logbook first and check the name and address on it match the person selling it, and that the make, model, colour and registration match the car in front of you. A seller who can't produce the V5C, or whose details don't line up, is a walk-away.

Then do the free and cheap online checks before you get emotionally attached. The car's full MOT history is free on GOV.UK with just the reg, and it tells you the mileage at each test, any advisories and the pattern of fails. A paid HPI-style check (a few pounds) is well worth it: it flags outstanding finance, whether the car has ever been written off, and whether the mileage or plates have been changed.

Look at the car in dry daylight, never in the rain or under a showroom's lighting, because both hide a lot. Stand back and look down the side of the body: the gaps between panels should be even, and the paint should match from panel to panel. Mismatched paint, uneven gaps or overspray on the rubber seals usually mean the car has had accident repair, which isn't always a dealbreaker but is worth knowing and asking about.

Check the sills, wheel arches and around the boot and doors for rust or bubbling paint, as that's where it starts. Then look at the tyres. All four should have plenty of tread (the legal minimum is 1.6mm), wear evenly across the tyre, and ideally be a matching brand. Odd brands or uneven wear can point to cheap corner-cutting or a steering and suspension issue.

The wear inside should match the mileage on the clock. A car showing 30,000 miles with a shiny worn steering wheel, saggy driver's seat and worn pedal rubbers doesn't add up, and that's a classic sign the mileage has been wound back. Cross-check the mileage against the MOT history you already pulled.

Turn the ignition on and watch the dashboard. All the warning lights should come on together, then go out once the engine is running. A light that never comes on can mean a bulb has been removed to hide a fault, and a light that stays on (engine management, ABS, airbag) is something to get to the bottom of before you buy. Try the electrics too: windows, central locking, lights, heater, air con and the infotainment.

You don't need to be a mechanic to spot the obvious. With the engine cold, check the oil on the dipstick is at a sensible level and not black and gritty or milky. Check the coolant level in its tank is between the marks, and that the coolant isn't a rusty brown colour.

Look around the engine and on the floor under the car for obvious oil or coolant leaks, damp patches or drips. A bit of general grime is normal on an older car, but wet, fresh leaks or a suspiciously steam-cleaned engine (hiding something) are both worth a question.

Always drive the car, and ideally start it from cold yourself, because a lot of engine faults only show on a cold start and a warmed-up engine can mask them. Listen for rattles, knocks or heavy smoke as it fires up.

On the move, cover a mix of speeds and a few different roads. The brakes should pull the car up straight without pulling to one side, juddering or squealing. The steering should be straight and not vibrate. The clutch should bite cleanly and the gears go in without crunching or jumping out. Listen for any knocks over bumps or whines that change with speed, and check again that no warning lights come on while you're driving.